Cashmere facts, comparison between Mongolian cashmere vs Chinese cashmere (also known as Inner Mongolian cashmere)
1.Geographical and Climate Factors:
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- Mongolian Cashmere refers to cashmere that comes from Mongolia, country located between China and Russia. Mongolia is known for producing some of the rarest and highest quality cashmere as it adapts incredibly well to the harsh continental climate.
The subzero temperatures, dry, long winters and hot summers create a harsh environment that stimulates the growth of ultra-fine undercoats in goats resulting in soft and luxurious cashmere. The temperature fluctuations often reach as low as -40°C (-40°F) in the winter, pushing goats to develop a denser and finer undercoat, often called duvet.
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- Chinese Cashmere comes from Inner Mongolia, an autonomous region within northern China. Despite sharing a name with Mongolia, Inner Mongolia is a Chinese province, and it is also famous for producing cashmere.
The climate is slightly more moderate compared to Mongolia, though still cold, with winter temperatures reaching -20°C (-4°F) or lower. However, the environmental conditions remain favorable for cashmere production due to the cold winters.
2.Quality and characteristics of Fiber:
Fiber Diameter:
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- Mongolian Cashmere: Generally, Mongolian cashmere has a fiber diameter ranging from 14 to 16 microns. This fine diameter contributes to the luxurious softness.
- Chinese Cashmere: Inner Mongolian cashmere also has a fine diameter, typically between 15 to 18 microns. This is very similar to Mongolian cashmere but may sometimes have slightly more variation.
Length and Density:
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- Mongolian Cashmere: Generally has longer fibers, which contribute to its durability and softness. The fibers tend to be longer, typically 30-40 mm or more, which improves the durability and resistance to pilling.
Longer fibers enhance the spinning process, resulting in stronger yarns with less pilling.
Unbleached and undyed cashmere fibers have four natural colors: white, beige, warm grey and brown are the naturally occurring shades of Mongolian goats
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- Chinese Cashmere: Fiber lengths in Inner Mongolia range between 25-35 mm, which is comparable but may occasionally be shorter than high-grade Mongolian cashmere. Shorter fibers can be softer but may pill more quickly.
3.Production Practices:
Hand Combing: Both regions traditionally use hand-combing techniques to collect cashmere during molting seasons (spring), which minimizes fiber breakage.
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- Mongolia: Cashmere production in Mongolia is a smaller industry compared to Inner Mongolia but is a significant part of the Mongolian economy. Mongolia accounts for around 40% of the global raw cashmere supply.
In Mongolia, the emphasis on traditional methods often results in smaller quantities but higher quality.
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- China: Inner Mongolia is the world’s largest producer of cashmere, accounting for a substantial portion of the global market. The cashmere industry in Inner Mongolia is more industrialized, leading to a larger volume of cashmere production.
4.Environmental Impact and Grazing conditions:
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- Mongolian Pasture: Diverse flora including various grasses and shrubs contributes to the goats’ nutrition and the quality of cashmere.
Increasing focus on sustainable and ethical production methods, including pastoralist practices that benefit local communities.
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- Chinese Pasture: More intensive agriculture can affect natural grazing lands, potentially leading to a less diverse diet for goats.
There is growing awareness of sustainability, but intensive agriculture can pose challenges to traditional grazing practices.
5.Perception and marketing:
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- Mongolian Cashmere is often marketed as more artisanal or traditional, highlighting the nomadic herding practices and the sustainable, eco-friendly methods used by Mongolian herders.
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- Chinese Cashmere is sometimes associated with larger-scale production and more industrial processes, though the quality remains high.
6.Market pricing:
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- Mongolian Cashmere: Generally commands a higher price due to its superior quality and lower production volumes. Often marketed as luxury goods.
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- Chinese Cashmere: Tends to be more competitively priced, appealing to a broader market segment, including mid-range products.
SUMMARY
- Quality: Mongolian cashmere is generally considered superior in softness, fiber diameter, and overall durability, making it a top choice for luxury products.
- Variability: Inner Mongolian cashmere can vary more in quality due to different breeding and agricultural practices but remains a solid option for mid-range products.
- Sustainability: Both regions are becoming more conscious of sustainable practices, though Mongolian methods often emphasize traditional pastoralism.
Here are some common sources where such data might be found:
- Textile Research Journals
- Standard Testing Organizations:
- AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists)
- ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials)
- Industry Reports
- Universities and Research Institutions
- Textile Testing Laboratories